Archive for the ‘Automobile Hell’ Category

Say Hello to the 1996 Geo Metro

Saturday, August 15th, 2009

Well, the Saturn has been a good car to us – despite its 20mpg, it hasn’t cost much to maintain, and I think I finally have all of the problems figured out – not fixed, but at least figured out.

But even 30mpg isn’t going to be enough, when we’re used to 64mpg from the Renault Laguna we had in England. So, we went out and bought ourselves a 1996 Geo Metro with an EPA 40mpg. It’s a 1.3 litre four cylinder – and it’s non-interference, so if the timing belt snaps it isn’t going to cause catastrophic damage. It is, of course, a stick shift. ;)

So far I’ve really enjoyed driving it, but it does have a few problems that need to be sorted out:

  1. The brake pads need replacing. I’ve already made an attempt to change them, but I couldn’t even get the wheels off!
  2. There’s rust that needs repairing and painting.
  3. The radio and auxilary power socket appear to be dead – maybe a fuse?
  4. The check engine light is on, I need to get the code(s) read.

I’ll document my work on this car. Now for some pictures… (these were taken directly from the listing, I haven’t taken my own yet!)

1996 Geo Metro

1996 Geo Metro

1996 Geo Metro

Oh isn’t she a beaut! ;)

Bad MAP sensor causes high idle & bad MPG

Friday, July 3rd, 2009

Today I removed the MAP sensor from my 1992 Saturn SL. Upon removal, I noticed the seal that goes around the port was stuck inside the air intake.

Using a pair of needle nosed pliers, I managed to pull the seal out. It looks as though someone had connected the MAP sensor with the seal off centre causing it to warp. Without a doubt, this must be causing a vacuum leak.

Whether or not the MAP sensor I currently have is working properly – I don’t know – but I do know that the readings it gives to the ECU are next to useless.

At the moment my car idles high if it’s moving, and is achieving 20 MPG. I intend to replace the MAP sensor shortly, and will report any changes.

Can a bad alternator cause my engine to misfire?

Thursday, April 9th, 2009

If your engine is mifiring, there are many potential causes. For example:

  • One the cylinders may have lost compression.
  • Bad fuel mixture.
  • Spark plugs may be fouled.
  • HT leads might be shorting out.
  • Coils could be damaged.

But something I haven’t read anywhere is that an alternator can cause misfires – and last week, this was proven to be true.

If I started my car in the morning to drive to work, a few miles down the road my car would begin to misfire. To begin with, I suspected the coils – but looking down, it was evident that the coils weren’t showing any sign of shorting out and they also weren’t hot after running.

I thought back to the time I jump started my car and wondered if it may have caused damage to my alternator. I noticed that while the car was running, the interior dome light was flickering – a sure sign of a failing alternator.

My next test was to see if the car could run on its own power – by removing the battery. To do this:

  1. Lift the hood with the car running.
  2. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. (if the car keeps running, the alternator must be producing some power)
  3. Try turning your lights and blowers on to see if the car stalls. If it does – your alternator is probably dead.

Based on the results of the test, I went out and bought a second hand $50 alternator from a parts yard. After several hours of drilling through the side of my Saturn (more on that later) I finally managed to connect the replacement alternator.

Sure enough – my car no longer misfires. I’ve also noticed my battery seems stronger too.

How to properly jump start your car

Wednesday, February 25th, 2009

Disclaimer: If you get killed, hurt, dismembered, or anything else that you consider bad while following anything in this article, you accept FULL LIABILITY. I am not a car mechanic, I just have a big head.

You get outside, jump in your car, stick the key in the ignition, and try to turn the engine. The engine turns a few times and then CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK. The dreaded sound from a dead battery.

At this point, you need to jump start your car.

First, you’re going to need another car, or a mobile jump pack. You’ll use one of these to either boost your battery (if it isn’t completely dead) or start your engine.

To begin with, we’ll assume that the battery is not dead.

Turn the engines off on both cars. Lift the hood on both cars, and look inside for the battery. Make sure that you can clearly see the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE terminals, as mixing them up can be dangerous.

Connect your jump leads in the following order:

  1. Connect the RED lead to the POSITIVE terminal of the DEAD car.
  2. Connect the other end of the RED lead to the POSITIVE terminal of the LIVE car.
  3. Connect the BLACK lead to the NEGATIVE terminal of the LIVE car.
  4. Connect the other end of the BLACK lead to a shiny metal part inside the engine bay that is distant from the battery.

The fourth step may sound a little odd at first, but the reason we connect the black cable away from the battery is to reduce the risk of explosion. Batteries can release hydrogen gas – you don’t want to ignite it. The whole car is connected to the battery’s negative terminal, so as long as you connect the black cable to a nice SHINY piece of metal, the connection should be fine. (note: do NOT use a painted piece!)

Now that we have the cars connected, we need to start your dead car.

Jump in to your dead car, and turn the key to start the engine. Don’t attempt this for longer than 10 seconds, we don’t want to drain the other car’s battery.

BIG Misconception: Some people believe that revving the engine on the LIVE car will provide enough power to start the engine on the DEAD car, this simply IS NOT true. The power the DEAD car will use to start will come from the battery, the car’s alternator cannot produce enough amps to turn the engine and fire the plugs at the same time. Putting this additional strain on a car’s alternator can actually cause it to fail – who’s going to take the bill on that one? It is safer to turn the LIVE car’s engine off while trying to start the DEAD car.

If the engine doesn’t start, start the LIVE car and leave for ten minutes. Before attempting to start the dead car again, make sure you switch the live car off. Jump in your dead car, try starting the engine and take note – if the engine is spinning as slowly as last time, then your battery probably isn’t up to the task.

At this point, you’re going to need a new battery. You might want to repeat the process again to be sure, but if your battery can’t hold the charge, and your car isn’t starting, you’re fighting for a lost cause.

This brings me on to the second possibility – the battery is dead. What now? You need to start your car, but the live car doesn’t seem to be providing enough juice to start it. You’ll probably need to get a tow truck. But before you donate your wallet, have you checked your jump leads?

If the live car can start its engine, it can probably start your engine too. However, if your jump leads are cheap (cheap leads are typically light leads) they won’t be able to transmit the power needed to start the engine. Invest a nice heavy set of jump leads and keep them in your trunk. Even if your battery is dead, you’ll probably be able to start your car with a set of these.

You can find jump leads at your local Walmart. Just don’t be cheap.